Advertisements

MkrGeo

An original point of view

Travel

The magic Cornwall – part 1 from Tintagel to Lizard

Tintagel Castle with destroyed isthmus.

The Tintagel Castle with destroyed isthmus in XIII century.

A few words of introduction

In those few articles, I would like to describe our two fantastic journeys to Cornwall, which we made in 2015 and 2016. There were 2 separate journeys managed from Cambridge to the Southwest part of the United Kingdom. Both of them led through Devon – one region adjacent to smaller Cornwall situated in the extreme south-west of the country. To be said on those journeys to Cornwall consisted of a few spots in aforementioned Devon county.

Aside from a long description of both journeys I will try to give you five advice refers to visit Cornwall.

Our first journey had a place during the weekend 14 – 16.08.2015. We left Cambridge right after work on Friday afternoon, exactly at 6pm from Addenbrooke’s Hospital. After nearly 6 hours drive we slept in the car on the Castle Drogo car parking. Saturday morning was nice. The sun was shining, however, was quite cold. We headed towards the west coast to reach the Tintagel Castle and next in the proximate vicinity the small town Port Isaac, where we spent lovely Saturday afternoon. After watching the world go by in the Port Isaac we proceeded (via Bodmin Moor and Tamar Bridge) to Torquay, the English Riviera capital, where we stayed overnight. Sunday welcomed us a beautiful Sun. Our first port of call that day was a cozy village Cockington where we could enjoy a former rural landscape. The next place was also amazing. It was a mind-boggling Brixham with colorful construction and inspiring II World War fortress situated on the Berry Head peninsula (already covered by Berry Head National Natural Reserve). Afternoon we spent walking around very beautiful gardens and Agata Christie’s holiday home. We left there around 4.30pm to visit the last place consisting of the “Cornwall 2015” trip – Exeter where we meet my old friend Wiktor Trybus there also. Basically, we saw only 3 places in Cornwall that time: Tintagel, Port Isaac, Bodmin Moor and Tamar Bridge (pic.1).

Conrwall trip from Cambridge

Pic.1 The “Cornwall 2015” trip from Cambridge only for weekend 14 – 16.08.

We left Exeter around 7pm and returned to Cambridge around 6 hours later. It was amazing, although a ridiculous trip. I came to the conclusion, that Cornwall lays too far from East Anglia and it is not really possible to visit it without holidays. I was sleeping the next day at work.

Our 2nd journey was far better prepared. Especially the trip was going to be much longer. We took 3 days off and we’re planning to spend in the lovely southwest corner of this country. We set off on Friday’s evening 12th August and headed almost the same route as 1 year before. I was working in Aylesbury, so we met in Oxford, however the time when we left Oxford was almost 7.30pm. Basically, we were nearly 1 hour ahead in order to “Cornwall 2015” journey, when we passed Oxford around 8.15 pm.

Our first port of call the next day was Exmoor National Park. After overnight stay in the car (we came around 11.30pm on-site) day welcomed with us gloomy weather with gusty wind. Fortunately was getting better later, so we could continue our amazing journey called “Cornwall 2016”. We saw the Dunster Castle and beautiful Porlock Bay with a nice view of South Wales on the opposite side of the Bristol Canal. Later We proceeded on the highest point of the Exmoor Highlands – Dunkery Beacon which rises 513 m.a.s.l. and is covered by a picturesque moor layer. I must recommend you also Lynmouth town with Watersmeet House, hide in forest valley and cliffs near Trentishoe, from where you can spot even Beacon Brecon National Park in Wales. The first day we rounded off in Exeter, where I could meet my old friend from my hometown, who comes to Devon every year during the summer to work. After a brief party, we located just outside the city near the “gate” to Dartmoor National Park, which was good to visit the next day during the morning. Last spots, before entering to the Cornwall were Lydford Gorge and Buckland Abbey.

Finally! We reached Cornwall on the Tamar Bridge, from where we left this region one year before. Our first destination in Cornwall was Lizard Point, the southernmost point of Great Britain, where we stayed at night. In my opinion, it was the best place to sleep, which I haven’t had for a long time. I could watch the stars and beautiful moonset from there. The next day, Monday we started from a beautiful beach situated near Kynance Cove. That day I managed the trip called “Big cornish loop”, which included: Lizard Point, Falmouth, Mevagissey, Eden Project, Cornish Alps, and Newquay. This “loop” finished near Land’s End Airport. We slept there in a tent. It was one of the best locations to make a “Small cornish loop” on Tuesday. This smaller “loop” included St. Michael’s Mount, Porthcurno Beach, Land’s End, Cape Cornwall, and Carn Galve Engineer House. After this we back to the same place of stay. Last night on Wednesday we scouted the St Ives town and headed outside the Cornwall towards Okehampton via misty and rainy Bodmin Moor. The Okehampton Castle was our last stop before the way down.

We had to be in Oxford at 7pm because my fiance had the last bus to Cambridge from there. I returned to Aylesbury at 8.30pm  (pic. 2).

Cornwall road trip from Aylesbury

Pic. 2 Our 5 days trip “Cornwall 2016”  11 – 16.08.2016: Day 1st (Exmoor) – blue, 2nd (Dartmoor) – red, 3rd (Big cornish loop) – brown, 4th (Small cornish loop) – green and 5th – return journey via St. Ives, Bodmin Moor, and Okehampton.

Places to see in Cornwall

Here I would like to summarize all the places, which are worth to see when you decide to visit the extreme south-west part of the United Kingdom. There are places, which I saw personally and a few more, which I passed by during both journeys. I am not going to extend my description of those places. You will have a much more, when using “uncle” Google. It is going to be basic information for you how to get around with and get the sense of this amazing location.

  1. Tintagel Castle

Tintagel Castle is a fantastic medieval fortress located ashore, outside the Tintagel village. The best access to this place is through the Vale of Avalon (pic. 3). The castle is a legendary birthplace of King Arthur.

The vale of Avalon near Tintagel castle

Pic. 3 The Vale of Avalon – main road leading to the Tintagel Castle and the Barras Nose.

The castle was built in 1233 by Richard, 1st Earl of Cornwall in old-fashioned style for the time to make it appear more ancient. Since the XIX century, the castle is high visited by tourists, who have been fascinated by the King’s Arthur’s legends.

Tintagel Castle remnants

Pic. 4 Today’s remnants of upper wards of the Tintagel Castle seen from the Tintagel Island.

According to the legend Arthur’s father, Uther Pendragon fell in love with Igraine, the wife of Gorlois of Cornwall, who owned the Tintagel Castle at that time. Once upon the time he entered the castle and seduced the queen. It was in this way that Arthur is said to have been conceived. King Arthur is a legendary British leader, who led the defense of Britain against Saxon.

King-Arthur birth in Tintagel Castle

Pic. 5. The King’s Arthur birth (N.C. Wyeth, ancient-origins.net).

Tintagel Castle remnants2

Pic. 6 View on another part of Tintagel Castle, located on the Tintagel Island.

The Tintagel Castle has been built as a cliff-top castle. Unfortunately quickly had fallen into ruins. The main reason for this was erosion the isthmus, that joined the castle with the mainland. Much of it has fallen to sea during a huge landslide in the 1500s.

Tintagel Castle reconstruction

Pic. 7. A reconstruction of Tintagel Castle around 1240 (Aaron Watson, English-heritage.org.uk).

Tintagel Castle land erosion

Pic. 8 The land isthmus erosion process around the Tintagel Castle.

This neck of land was occupied since Roman times. The best proof of this is a lot of pottery from the V-VI century, which was founded here.

Tintagel Castle remnants3

Pic. 9 The remains of the medieval Tintagel Castle on the Tintagel Island part.


Read more about the Tintagel Castle:

Tintagel Castle as an English Heritage

The history of Tintagel Castle

Richard of Cornwall

The Tintagel Castle, one of the main attraction of the Cornwall


1b. The Barras Nose

The best place to see the Tintagel Castle outside is the Barras Nose, a small land protrusion with a fantastic viewpoint. You can even see the Isle of Lundy from there.

The Barras Nose seen from the south

Pic. 10 The Barras Nose seen from the south.

Barras Nose, The Sisters islet

Pic. 11 View from the Barras Nose towards the north with “The Sisters” islet and another landslide on the foreground.

Tintagel Castle remnants4

Pic. 12 The Tintagel Castle rouns seen from the Barras Nose.

1c. Merlin’s Cave

Merlin’s Cave is a product of coastal erosion, which is located directly beneath the Tintagel Castle. It is 100 m long and passing completely through Tintagel Island. This is the example of the tunnel, that may have been excavated by underground streams before they were invaded by the sea.

Merlin's Cave

Pic. 13 The Merlin’s Cave entrance.

Merlin's Cave from inside

Pic. 14 View outside from the Merlin’s Cave.

2. Port Isaac

Port Isaac is a small and picturesque fishing village located only 10 km south from the Tintagel Castle.

Tintagel Castle seen from Port Isaac

Pic. 15. View on the Tintagel Castle from Port Isaac.

Port Isaac’s location has been used for many films and TV series, e.g.  The Nightmare Man (1981), Oscar and Lucinda (1997) and Saving Grace (2000).

Port Isaac seen from the south

Pic. 16 Port Isaac village is seen from the south.

3. Bodmin Moor

This is the highest area in the whole of Cornwall. The granite moorland is situated in the northeastern part of the county. Inside the area, you can find a few inland lakes (pic. 17).

Colliford Lake Bodmin Moor

Pic. 17 The Colliford Lake, the biggest inland water in the Bodmin Moor area.

In general, the Bodmin Moors is a huge rural area with many plutonic tors, that rises up above the rolling moorland (pic. 18).

Bearah Tor at Bodmin Moor

Pic. 18 The Bodmin Moor landscape with Bearah Tor beyond.

4. Tamar Bridge

Tamar Bridge is a major road bridge over the River Tamar between Cornwall and Devon. This 335 m long construction has been built in 1961 as an answer for demands to supplement the Saltash and Torpoint ferries, which could not cope with the increasing motor traffic. The Tamar Bridge is part of the Devon Expressway a major cross-country road from Exeter to Bodmin.

Tamar Bridge a gate to Cornwall

Pic. 19 Crossing the Tamar Bridge from the west. Leaving the Cornwall.

Tamar Bridge a gate to Cornwall 2

Pic. 20 Crossing the Tamar Bridge from the east. Entering to Cornwall.

Tamar Bridge a gate to Cornwall 3

Pic. 21 The Cornwall County coat of arm represents a county’s maritime connections and pioneering industrial heritage. Below you can see the Cornwall’s own name in cornish language.

5. Truro

Truro is the capital of Cornwall with at least 19k inhabitants. It’s good to visit the Cathedral when you stop there, however the object is well visible from the bypass also (pic .22).

Truro Cathedral seen from bypass

Pic. 22 View on Truro Cathedral from the bypass.

6. Helston

Helston is the most southerly town in Great Britain, around 2,4 km farther south than Penzance. The population of this town is around 12k. Helston is known by one of the oldest British custom – Furry Dance (Flora Dance). This annual event takes place on 8th May (or the Saturday before when 8th May falls on Sunday or Monday). This event provides a big pageant where the dancers wear traditional Helston’s symbolic flower – The Lily of the valley. The Furry Dance is basically the celebration of the passing of winter and the arrival of spring.

Helston downtown Coinagehall Street

Pic. 23. Coinagehall Street, the main street in the Helston town.

7. Lizard Point

Lizard Point is worth to see, because this is the southernmost part of the British mainland. Moreover, if you like to stargaze you choose one of the best places in the UK. Especially the southern sky is almost free of artificial lightning!

Lizard Point Moonset

Pic. 24 Moonset saw from Lizard Point during the overnight stay.

The Lizard Point is also the starting point for many ships for their ocean passage. Around this extreme south place in Britain, you can find also a white lighthouse, YHA Lizard Youth Hostel, and beautiful cliffs.

Lizard Point at the low tide

Pic. 25 The Lizard Point during the low tide.

Lizard Point cliffs seen at the low tide

Pic. 26 Beautiful cliffs around the Lizard Point.

To be continued…

Mariusz Krukar

References:

  1. Bird E., 2008, Coastal Geomorphology an introduction, John Wiley & Sons, Chichester

Links:

As per as above +

About cornish coat of arms

My friend Wiktor Trybus personal blog

 

 

 

 

 

 

Advertisements

Theme by Anders Norén

Follow

Get the latest posts delivered to your mailbox:

%d bloggers like this: