An original point of view


City break in a mountain bothy

lluest Cwm Bach mountain bothy and Craig Goch lake beyond

Lluest Cwm Bach mountain bothy with the Craig Goch lake beyond.

There is a dozen or so mountain bothies in the UK mountain areas (Scotland, North England and Wales) where you can stay overnight for free.
It’s good to make a nice weekend then, when the summer is coming. You can enjoy very long, pleasant day and warm night. I decided to go to Wales straight after polish holiday in the first weekend of June (June 3-5). My basic intinerary contained accomodation in the nearest mountain bothy only. Beside I planned some relax in the mountains.

New accommodation idea and scottish circumstances 

My fiance found mountain bothies from the website last year. Finally We decided to spent a couple nights in that huts during the next season. First time I was planning to sleep in the Glenbuck Bothy in Scotland. Glenbuck is the nearest hut to the route. Another mountain cottages in Scotland are practically unaccesible by car. However Glenbuct Bothy is still far away from the road. You have to walk up to 5 km to reach the building.
When we went to Scotland on Easter’2016 the weather wasn’t so good. Since Good Friday afternoon, when the frond came we witnessed passing downpours. Beside we used to round off the daily trip program so late, as usual after dusk. Hence the opportunity to reach the bothy wasn’t so big. On God Friday’s evening we approached the Aberchalder village, from where is the shortest way to Glenbuck Bothy. I was using captured the Google Earth satellite image pictures, which unfortunately didn’t show the way so clearly. I knew that I have to follow some narrow gravel way along the valley (Pic.1,2).

The way from Aberchalder to the Glenbuck bothy seen in Google Earth

The way from Aberchalder to the Glenbuck bothy seen in Google Earth 2

Pic. 1,2 The best way to the Glenbuck bothy, Google Earth

I decided to try go there by car unless when I saw, that road goes too steep (Pic. 3,4).

The best way from Aberchalder to the Glenbuck Bothy

The best way from Aberchalder to the Glenbuck Bothy 2

Pic. 3,4. The best way to the Glenbuck Bothy seen from Aberchalder, Scotland, 27.03.2016.

It was impossible to reach the hut on foot, because of the weather. On Good Friday’s
night was raining a lot, on top of that was only +4°C. We decided to sleep in car next to the Aberchalder village both Good Friday and Holy Saturday.

Second attempt – welsh bothy

We decided to repeat the bothy adventure obviously in much better weather. The nearest catalogued mountain shelter from Cambridge and Aylesbury is the Cwm Bach.
We started on Friday 3rd June after 7pm from Oxford. The route from Oxford to Rhayader, the closest town from Cwm Bach isn’t so long, but there is no neither motorways nor express road (Pic. 5).

Oxford to Rhayader best route by Google Maps

Pic. 5 The shortest way from Oxford to Rhayader in Wales,

Besides you can’t believe the Google Maps, which always shows shorter travel time than normally is. According to Google Maps you are going maximum speed as you can go on the road. Hovewer the application doesn’t consider e.g traffic lights, roundabouts and another vehicles, which may go slower. Finally We were in Rhayader after 11pm. After pass the Rhayader we had to head west towards beautiful Elan Valley, where the Cwm Bach is situated in.
There is no bothies directly accesible by car in UK so you have to left your car in
different place. I left my car in the adjacent car park to Craig Coch Dam. Thence we set towards our overnight stay (Pic. 6,7).

Cwm Bach the best way in Google Earth

Cwm Bach the best way in Google Earth 2

Pic. 6,7 Trail from Craig Goch dam to Lluest Cwm Bach bothy overview, Google Earth

It had been almost dark, then We used headlights to see where
we was going (Pic 8).

On the way to the bothy from Craig Goch Dam car park

Pic. 8 Patch leads from Craig Goch Dam car park, Jun 3, 23:40 BST.

After the climb out of the valley we were traversing the edge of the
reservoir on the barely visible sheep trail. Finally, after nearly 2,8km very of a very difficult and unmarked trail we reached our destination at 0:45am (Pic. 9,10,11).

Lluest Cwm Bach bothy view inside

Pic. 9 Inside the Cwm Bach bothy, Jun 4, 1:00 BST.

View on the Craig Goch lake and Aberystwyth light glow beyond

Pic. 10 View towards Craig Goch lake and Aberystwyth light glow beyond, Jun 4 1:10 BST.

View around Lluest Cwm Bach at night

Pic. 11 Former Cwm Bach habitable land and Rhayader light glow beyond, Jun 4 1:15 BST.

Lovely refurbished Lluest Cwm Bach Bothy

I was really surprised, when I came into the hut. The interior has been prepared for
tourists perfectly. You can enjoy a big table, fireplace, clothes hanger and platforms to sleep, situated alongside the north wall (Pic. 12,13).

Lluest Cwm Bach bothy view inside 2

Lluest Cwm Bach bothy view inside 3

Pic. 12,13 Inside the Lluest Cwm Bach bothy.

The cottage even have a toilet in the outside lean-to shed.

The Lluest is translated as a simple building, usually on the outer limits of habitable land and often having early origins as a squatter’s hastily erected dwelling.

The LLuest Cwm Bach was property of Scott Family, which cames from Scotland. The 1841 census offically says about family totalling nine people alltogether. Since 1850s John Scott with childrens was farming a hundred acres around of Cwm Bach. The youngest son Andrew eventually became established as shepsherds at Cwm Bach during the mid 1880s.
The location at Cwm Bach close to little valley was typical. “Cattle were the mainstay of some farm economies, and other Illuest had beginnings as very modest dairy buildings a distance from the parent farm”.
Reportedly the cottage had a close connection with a large house close to Rhayader,
called Newhouse on modern maps. Cwm Bach was no doubt one of the place an active sheep raising (pic14).

Lluest Cwm Bach bothy about 100 years before

Pic. 14 Lluest Cwm Bach around 100 years ago, MBA archival documents

Basicly the cottage contained five rooms noted on the 1911 census – “a handful of quartzite stones stand out from the more regular courses of local stone“. Apparently it was tradition for the quartz to be used as a good luck charm in a new home.
In 1952 Scott Family moved out. Since that time the cottage was going down. After couple years was only walls, without roof.
Currently Lluest Cwm Bach is the newest of the MBA suppoorted bothies. It was renovated during 2013 by MBA (Mountain Bothy Association) and Ellan Valley Trust. It really looks as a brand new hut which looks very well maintainem and always ready to active use. Besides It is a really nice wild place to hike in!

Lluest Cwm Bach bothy general view

Pic.15 Lluest Cwm Bach bothy today.

Lazy Saturday

We woke up around 10am. It was seemed all night long that someone is coming. It could be strange because of the night time and poor accesibility from the nearest roads. They were a sheep, which was in the vicinity of the shed. We decided back to our car and go visit surrounding area. I can admit, that Elav Valley is very nice (Pic. 16,17,18).

View on the Craig Gocg Dam

Pic.16 Craig Goch Dam and surrounding area.

View on the Caban Coch Resrvoir in Cambrian Mountains

Pic. 17 Caban Coch Reservoir.

Cwmdauddwr village an entrance to the Elan Valley in Cambrian Mountains

Pic. 18 Cwmdauddwr village – main entrance to the Elan Valley.

I can also recommend to go to the Plynlimon area, close to Aberystwyth (Pic. 19,20)

Welsh cattle

Pic. 19 Local cattle.

Cambrian Mountains, Nath-y-Moch reservoir

Pic. 20  Nant-y-Moch Reservoir and Drosgol (1806ft) beyond.

The Elan Valley seen from the Cwmystwyth village

Pic. 21 The Ellan Valley from the bottom (Cwmystwyth village).

We were back to the Bothy around 7pm using different, shorter way directly from a car park near to the Afon Elan river. That idea wasn’t good, because we underwent lot of difficulties with water and mud-soaked moors.

Sunday – time to back

Sunday morning was pretty good and warm. We left the Cwm Bach at 10am, came across
unpleasant moors again and approach our car around half an hour later.
Our way was very long, because we wanted to see another places en-route. We have been to Llandrindod Wells, Kington, Hereford and Gloucester (Pic. 22 – 27).

Llandrindod Wells downtown

Pic. 22 Llandrindod Wells, Spa Road building architecture.

Cambrian Mountains - Radnor Forest landscape

Pic.23 Radnor Forest landscape, Old Radnor.

Kington town centre

Pic. 24 Kington, town centre.

Pic. 25 Woonton village, view towards the Black Mountains (Brecon Beacons National Park).

Hereford town centre on river Wye

Pic. 26 Hereford – town centre and river Wye.

Cathedral in Gloucester

Pic. 27 Gloucester Cathedral.

Mariusz Krukar


B. Tony, 2013, Lluest Cwm Bach – birth of a new bothy, MBA support materials


Basic information about Cwm Bach bothy

MBA Cwm Bach general information

Proposed route to Cwm Bach






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